Colca: Saturday

Saturday morning, the group took a 30 min bus ride to a lookout to view condors. My host mom had warned me, though, that the group was going too late to see any. Sometimes, people have to go as early as 5am to see them! But, we went around 8:30 anyway. But we saw them! A LOT of them. Our tour guide was amazed at how many there were. He said we were very lucky.

Even though they´re just huge vultures, they represent the Andes and even a god to some people. And, after one flies over your head, you can´t deny their majesty. I took many many pictures, but I can only share a few here. Again, see Facebook soon to see them all!

Afterwards, we went to an area of terraced farmland. Here, we caught a rare glance of a traditional planting ritual. For hundreds of years, farmers have performed this ritual. First, there was a marching band and a parade of dancers through the fields and even some fireworks. There was even a random man or two in a mask and cape who liked to come grab the ladies. (Of course, the one with scissors made straight for me and wouldn´t let me go for several seconds!) Next, we were handed small bouquets of flowers that included a piece of bread stuck on a stick. I assume it represented what was to come after the harvest. Then our group made our way into the middle of a dusty field.

Spread in the center was a traditional blanket with wine, local Peruvian drinks and (haha) a 2L bottle of Coca-Cola. The girls were instructed to form a half-moon on one side and to take a knee or seat. The men stood on the other side, also with bouquets, but they stood. (You certainly can read into traditional roles from how this played out.) After we were settled, each girl took a fermented drink mixed with dirt to each guy. Whenever someone received the cup, they first poured some drink on the ground for Pachamama, Mother Earth, at three corners of the blanket. Then they bravely gulped down the rest and shook the remaining drops out. The woman was then to take back the cup, return it to be filled again and sit back down.

About 5 native men and 5 women walked us through their ritual. The men looked like typical farmhands - sweaty, wearing T-shirts and a ballcap. Some women, however, had on traditional dress - several colorful skirts, a vest and hat with 2 long braids coming out from underneath. After the men had all taken a drink, the women did the same. Well, except we served ourselves. Also, all of the Davidson people faked drinking the mixture, but we did give some back to Mother Earth. Maybe more than the others. :)

Next, a woman came around with a shot glass and a box of white wine. This, too, was passed from person to person. Pour some on the ground. Throw it back. Smile and return until everyone was served.

At the end, the women were sent off the field while the men followed around a horse and plow to represent planting the field. When we finally left, the field had been cleared of the blanket and goodies, and the men had started planting. Later, we were informed that we were extremely lucky to witness this because it wasn´t a typical tourist thing. This was the real deal, and we actually had the opportunity to participate! My favorite part was when I threw back the shot of wine, and I saw a condor flying near the sun and snow-capped mountains in the distance, across the canyon.

Later, we lunched back at the hotel and then planned a scenic walk. Horses, though, were also an option. I couldnt resist. Lucy, however, gave us strict instructions to be back in less than an hour. Our guide obviously didnt care because we rode eight miles! I was so happy...horseback riding through the farmland we had visited earlier, racing David down dirt roads and going up up and up until we could see the whole valley. Needless to say, I got sunburned, sore and was quite late. But it was totally worth it!

That night, we had a birthday party, campfire and played games. We retired early, though, because the altitude was still making us all more tired than usual. With the combo of the altitude, walking up and down the farmland and riding, I slept like a baby!

What I was listening to that day...


The Only Living Boy in New York

Tom, get your plane right on time.
I know your part will go fine.
Fly down to Mexico.
Da-n-da-da-n-da-n-da-da and here I am,
The only living boy in New York.

I get the news I need on the weather report.
I can gather all the news I need on the weather report.
Hey, Ive got nothing to do today but smile.
Da-n-da-da-n-da-da-n-da-da here I am
The only living boy in New York

Half of the time were gone but we dont know where,
And we dont know here.

Tom, get your plane right on time.
I know youve been eager to fly now.
Hey, let your honesty shine, shine, shine
Da-n-da-da-n-da-da-n-da-da
Like it shines on me
The only living boy in New York,
The only living boy in New York.